The Vieux Carre Commission Plaque

Le Vieux Carre – An afternoon in the French Quarter

Anytime I’m asked where my favorite places are, my “happy places,” the French Quarter of New Orleans is at or near the top of the list. The architecture, the food, the people of New Orleans are all amazing, but being in the Quarter just feels comfortable. It helps if you enjoy touristy stuff, crowds of people, and a little bit of boisterous behavior, but there are lots of things to see and do for the whole family, whatever your tastes.

While many people still worry about visiting post-Katrina New Orleans, and there are places I wouldn’t recommend venturing, the Quarter was spared most of the devastation and, if anything, is coming back a bit more family-friendly. You’ll still find a raucous party atmosphere on Bourbon Street in the evenings, but you’ll also find throngs of families with teens and younger in tow roaming through the streets and shops. Some call it the “Disneyfication” of the French Quarter. I wouldn’t go that far, but it certainly is tamer than the pirate days of Pierre LeFitte.

New Orleans French Quarter Collage via @TravelLatte

The French Quarter of New Orleans, anchored by Jackson Square on the banks of the mighty Mississippi.

My perfect Vieux Carre stay is at my favorite French Quarter hotel, the Westin Canal Place. It’s at the southwestern edge of the district, separating it from the Warehouse District, and is situated between Harrah’s Casino, the Aquarium of the Americas, and the Mighty Mississippi River. (Technically, the river is a block away, but you can see and walk to it from the hotel!) I enjoy getting a room that overlooks the River and the Quarter with a view of Jax Brewery and Jackson Square beyond.

Musicians play traditional jazz standards while diners enjoy traditional New Orleans dishes at the Court of Two Sisters' Jazz Brunch

Musicians play traditional jazz standards while diners enjoy traditional New Orleans dishes at the Court of Two Sisters’ Jazz Brunch.

Since we’re talking about the perfect day, we can start with the Jazz Brunch at Court of Two Sisters. It’s only about 10 minutes by foot, but it’s fun to catch the trolley that runs along the river. Hop off at Jackson Brewery and walk up Toulouse to Royal Street. You might want to allow an extra few minutes (like 30 or so!) to browse through the Toulouse Royal gift shop – it’s just about my favorite, despite all of the touristy stuff. Don’t worry, breakfast is right next door.

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Once we’re sufficiently stuffed, we can start walking it off by heading back down Royal to Bienville Avenue to check out Germaine Wells Mardi Gras Museum, above Arnaud’s (which is a fantastic place to eat). Being a private collection of costumes and memorabilia, it’s not as grand as Mardi Gras World, but it is free!

Our next stop is the Musee Conti Wax Museum, around the corner at Conti and Dauphine. This is not Madame Tussaud’s gallery of celebrities; instead, it details much of New Orleans’ history. It’s a great compliment to a tour of the French Quarter, giving some depth and color to the places you’ll see. From there, it’s back down Conti to Bourbon Street because you can’t visit Vieux Carre without strolling down its most famous thoroughfare. (Really, it’s a law…or something…) By day, it’s a great walk filled with traditional jazz bands, street performers and artists suitable for the family. Along the way, you may be tempted by Café Beignet but I urge you to resist. Don’t get me wrong, it’s great but we’ll get beignets later; we need to press on to Dumaine Street and one of the Quarter’s darkest haunts, New Orleans’ Historic Voodoo Museum! It’s not so spooky but is very historically relevant and the staff is really fun. If you have the time, the walking tour run by the museum is excellent.

The Heart of the French Quarter: Jackson Square & St. Louis Cathedral

The Heart of the French Quarter: Jackson Square & St. Louis Cathedral. The iconic Cafe du Monde is close by.

Afterwards, we’ll head down Dumaine towards the River, turning right on N. Peters Street to join the crowds at Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral. More history at the Louisiana State Museum and the Cathedral, and more street performers all around the Square. Even after many visits, I still enjoy the carriage tours that line up in front of the Square. There are some good restaurants if you’re ready for lunch or dinner, but I like heading across the street to my true New Orleans “Happy Place,” Café du Monde. Now we get beignets and a café au lait.

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After our beignet break, it’s back along the river (by foot or by trolley) to the Aquarium of the Americas. You would expect to see fish and wildlife from the adjacent Mississippi River, but there is so much more, representing habitats from around the world. The walk-through Caribbean Reef is my favorite, with the penguins being a close second.

If you map out our walk, you’ll notice we only managed to hit the highlights of about half of the French Quarter. There is so much more to do in the neighborhood and in New Orleans itself but, to keep this from reaching “Epic Novel” length, we’ll stop here and encourage you to visit le Vieux Carre (which is French for Old Square), birthplace of New Orleans, legends, and bon temps (good times).

While you’re here, check out our New Orleans Photo Gallery!

Beyond the French Quarter, we enjoy visiting the Audubon Institutue’s installations, which pretty well cover New Orleans, A(quarium) to Z(oo)!

Have you been to New Orleans? We’d love to hear about your favorite parts of the city and the French Quarter in the Comments!

10 comments on “Le Vieux Carre – An afternoon in the French Quarter

  1. It’s been years since I visited New Orleans and I would love to go back soon. I went when I was in middle school and I would be interested in seeing how it has changed since I’ve gotten older. I recall like the architecture and the food was delicious. I can see why you admire the French Quarter so much–it has culture, design, and lots of great flavors!

    • I think New Orleans’ neighborhoods are sort of like having children. We like them all, and we really don’t have a favorite… But that one is our favorite. 😉 We really do enjoy exploring the Garden District, love the Jazz clubs of Tremé, the restaurants of Freret, the pure “coolness” of Faubourg Marigny, but we always come back to the French Quarter. Overall, though, it’s one of our favorite cities in the whole wide world! Hope you get to visit again real soon, cher!

  2. Thank you for sharing this on Travel Tuesday. Not a place well-visited by us Singaporeans and such a pity. When we travel halfway across the globe to USA, it’s usually for Disney World, Hollywood, NYC, Las Vegas… You get the idea. Thank you for showing me this beautiful district. 🙂

    • Hi there, Bumble Bee Mum! Thanks for stopping by. There are many Americans who have yet to discover New Orleans, too! I have noticed more international visitors in recent years, though. I really enjoy it there, and I’m happy to see others coming to see this historic – and fun! – city. By the way – I love the idea of Pa Pa Zao. I think that’s what sets travel bloggers apart! See you on #TravelTuesday!

  3. It’s been such a long, long time since I’ve visited New Orleans, and I’d really like to introduce my kids to this magical city, especially View Carre. I’ve been to the Court of Two Sisters and, of course, Cafe du Monde, but I haven’t visited any of the museums you mention. They sound really interesting.

    • I think New Orleans is definitely more kid friendly today than when I was young. My kids really enjoyed some of the areas outside of the French Quarter, though – like Audubon, Congo Square, and Mardi Gras World in the Lower Garden District. But you really can’t beat a sunny day on Jackson Square! Thanks for stopping by the blog – excited to see someone from Texas out enjoying the world!

    • Thanks, Cindy, and thanks for stopping by! When you do get to New Orleans, make sure you explore the whole town – lots of beautiful homes and gardens, great architecture and fantastic parks.

  4. Wow! What an interesting travelogue. I’ve always dreamed about visiting New Orleans. Now, I almost feel as though I’ve been there. Thank you. Ruby.

    • Thanks, Ruby! There is so much more to do and see in New Orleans, even just in the French Quarter. After writing this one, I realized this could easily be a four or five part series of daily itineraries. I’m glad you liked it and hope you do visit the Crescent City.

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